Tucked away to the rear of the house is a charming courtyard enclosed by mature shrubs and bushes. Two magnificent olive trees dominate one side of the stone pool terrace, their distinctive, gnarled trunks and silver-leaved branches providing dappled shade. On the opposite side a tastefully designed covered dining terrace cleverly incorporates the ancient bread oven once used for baking the villagers’ daily staples.
A comfortable mix of traditional and contemporary styles, the living accommodation seamlessly integrates modern comforts alongside traditional, characterful features which include beamed ceilings and exposed stone window frames. From the ground floor twin bedroom, patio doors open onto the front terrace, whilst upstairs the delightful double bedroom has a balcony with far-reaching views across the surrounding Apokoronas countryside and an outer staircase descending directly to the front terrace.
A 15 minute stroll brings you to the leafy village centre. Bordered by orchards and olive groves, magnificent views to Souda Bay and the White Mountains imbue it with a rarefied air. Vamos’ three local tavernas specialise in homemade Cretan cuisine, while various mini-markets, kafenions, an internet café, post office, and a health centre have created a sense of community that is in marked contrast to the village’s chequered history. It was Arab pirates who first settled here in the eighth Century closely followed by the Venetians and Turks. Their combined legacy leaves a rich cultural heritage enthusiastically overseen by a preservation society established by the villagers.
Tempting as it is not to stray far from the peaceful ambience of the Old Bakery, for a day on the beach, the coastline between Alymirida and Kalives (3km) is hard to beat. Here you will find two gently shelving sandy beaches (one with a coveted Blue Flag), with watersports aplenty for the actively inclined, some little coves to explore for a gentler pastime, along with a small fishing harbour and several enticing waterside tavernas.
Chania (37km) is easy to get to and well worth an evening visit; charming and picturesque, it teems with pretty tavernas, a plethora of interesting shops and of course, the wonderful harbour where a coffee or something stronger can be enjoyed, watching the world go by.
Chania
