Puglia

Lying between the larger towns of Ostuni and San Vito dei Normanni, Carovigno is a small but bustling town whose narrow medieval streets fan out from an imposing 15th century castle. A typical ‘città bianca’ of the Itria Valley, the main square especially is a sea of white, from the white painted buildings to the stone paving, punctuated by tall palm trees. A good range of shops and restaurants are dotted through the town, and it is only a short drive to the coast at Torre Santa Sabina, with its seafood restaurants, sandy beaches and clear waters. Carovigno is also known as ‘La Città della ‘Nzegna’ – the town of flags – due to its troupes of ‘sbandieratori’ who put on spectacular displays of flag throwing and pageantry. 

This ‘città bianca’ rises high above the surrounding olive groves and fields, its eponymous whitewashed buildings crowned at the top by the Gothic cathedral. Within the city walls, a maze of medieval streets, passageways and flights of stairs lead up to the Palace and the Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta. Down at the entrance to the old town, the main square, Piazza della Libertà, is a lively spot with lots of restaurants and bars, the focal meeting point on a summer’s evening for an aperitivo and passeggiata. Venture further uphill to discover traditional restaurants and trattorie tucked away in the narrow cobbled streets. 

Martina Franca is the largest settlement in the Itria valley, and quite different in style and atmosphere to the surrounding ‘white towns’; here the buildings are larger and grander, some with warm yellow and pink hues. The historic centre is full to the brim with beautiful churches, 18th century Baroque houses, ornate iron balconies and gorgeous piazzas, and there are lots of cafes, restaurants and shops to explore. Martina (St Martin) is the name of the town’s patron saint and Franca means ‘free’. 

Noci and Putignano are neighbouring towns at the western end of the Itria Valley. Both have a compact historical centre, a veritable maze of narrow passageways between whitewashed houses and lovely churches that appear suddenly as you turn a corner. Restaurants are dotted about the streets, their tables spilling out onto paved piazzas. Tending to be less frequented by tourists than other towns in the valley, Noci and Putignano have an authentic vibe and offer a chance to experience the ‘real’ Puglia. Putignano and Noci both have a railway station, from where you can travel to the city of Bari, or in the other direction Alberobello, Locorotondo and Martina Franca. 

The seaside town of Polignano a Mare sits on the north coast of Puglia just 35km from the regional capital, Bari. Polignano has become deservedly popular, with Italians and foreign visitors alike, drawn to its enchanting historic centre, stunning sea views from its terrace promenades, and cute pebbly beaches with crystal-clear waters. The freshest seafood, a restaurant built into a cave, boat trips and water sports add to the appeal.

One of the ‘città bianche’ (white towns) in the Valle d’Itria, Cisternino’s gleaming white buildings perch atop a hill above a sea of olive trees. A stroll around the town reveals why it is classed as one of Italy’s Most Beautiful Towns (I Borghi Più Belli d’Italia): from the Ponte della Madonnina, take in the view over the Valle d’Itria, stroll along streets paved in ‘chianche’ (the local stone) lined with white washed buildings adorned with colourful flowers and explore the labyrinth of narrow alleyways, which lead to the Piazza dell’Orologio at the heart of the old town.