Festivals

The ‘Bravio delle Botti’ is a fascinating event which takes in Montepulciano on the last Sunday of August. Eight ‘contrade’ (districts) roll 80kg barrels around the town and up to the Piazza Grande in a medieval race dating back centuries. It’s a whole day event involving flag displays, locals dressed up in medieval garb, an al fresco lunch, a procession with drumming and trumpets, and culminating in the race itself!

If visiting in early September, don’t miss the ‘Fiera del Cacio’ in nearby Pienza, a festival to celebrate its famous Pecorino cheese. The fun includes a contest where competitors from each town district have to roll an entire round of Pecorino around the ‘fuso’, a wooden spindle in the middle of the square!

Museums

The ‘Civic Museum’ in Montepulciano is a quiet little gallery, situated in a fine palazzo. An interesting collection of Baroque pictures is complemented by a good range of media from the archaeology of the area (Etruscan, Roman) to a decent little section on the Della Robbia workshop (painted terracotta).

There are also two museums in nearby Chianciano. The ‘Delle Acque’ museum has archaeological and historical exhibits, including Etruscan and Roman artefacts (pottery, jewellery etc), and a reconstruction of rooms from an Etruscan farmhouse. The second museum is the ‘Museum of the Collegiata’ which contains various frescoes, paintings, carvings, sculptures and silverware by renowned Siena artists. Both are housed in impressive palazzi.

Thermal baths

About 10km from Montepulciano sits the spa resort of Chianciano Terme (‘terme’ being the Italian for thermal bath). Its heyday was in the 50s and 60s, but you can ‘take the waters’ today, whether you’re after a quick dunk or a specific treatment. The baths themselves have a surprisingly sophisticated set-up with multiple pools, baths and treatments available for all sorts of ills and grumbles from liver problems to gastro-intestinal tracts!

Charm and cheese!

About 15km from Montepulciano, the charming village of Pienza is often referred to as the “ideal city of the Renaissance”, rebuilt by Pope Pius II, who came from the village and made it his pet project. The notable buildings are the Cathedral, the Papal or Piccolomini Palace and the Town Hall, all overlooking the lovely central square. Pienza is also the home of the famous Pecorino cheese, made from sheep’s milk and available ‘fresh’ or ‘aged’, the latter having a stronger flavour. There are plenty of opportunities to taste before you buy.