Istria

Crowning the top of a hill as though standing guard over the truffle-rich forests of the Mirna Valley below, medieval Motovun must be visited. Whether to browse in its bohemian shops or to dine in a number of excellent restaurants, to marvel at the wonderful architecture or simply absorb the spectacular views whilst wandering around the town’s walls, Motovun offers much. Drop in over the last weekend in July to see film screenings from around the world as part of the annual international Motovun Film Festival.

Vodnjan is dominated by its Venetian bell tower, the tallest in Istria, and, like a welcoming beacon, beautifully illuminated at night. The town is on a hill surrounded by olive groves, tobacco fields and vineyards. As with so many of Istria’s towns, Vodnjan was a Roman settlement and later ruled by the Venetians from the 14^th to the 18^th century. At Vodnjan’s heart is a number of buildings in Venetian-Gothic style, and it is home to one of Istria’s best restaurants, Vodnjanka.

Make your way through the old Venetian town gate of Višnjan by means of the shiny cobbled streets into the higgledy-piggledy cluster of buildings and houses which run uphill to the church with its imposing campanile. Impressive views are found here, across the countryside with its lovingly-tended regiments of olive groves and vineyards and the stretch of Adriatic coast which bisects Poreč and Novigrad. Enjoy an unhurried balmy evening meal under the canopy of trees opposite the café-bar Al Ritrovo. Relaxing here, your only preoccupation will be whether to choose the pasta or the pizza…

They might be crumbling a little these days, but Sveti Lovreč’s fortified town walls, hundreds of years old, still clearly define the old part of this charming little town. The fortifications in evidence today date from Venetian times when Sveti Lovreč was the seat of military administration. Look for the recurring Venetian symbol, the lion of St Mark adorning Velika vrata, the main gate to the old town. These days Sveti Lovreč is a bustling town with busy cafés and a popular pizzeria, San Lorenzo, which fires up its ovens from early afternoon. Vineyards surrounding Sveti Lovreč contribute the grapes used by the renowned local winemaker Matošević.

One of Istria’s most popular medieval hilltop towns is leafy Grožnjan, a delightful tangle of pedestrianised cobbled streets lined with boutiques, galleries and workshops selling artwork, clothing, jewellery and ceramics, all locally produced. Add in a selection of irresistible cafés, some with fantastic views, and a couple of restaurants and your day out is complete. Wonder as you wander, absorbing Grožnjan’s wonderful architecture, archways here, stairways there, with occasional glimpses either across the Mirna Valley or out to the shimmering Adriatic Sea, all to the soundtrack of jazz or classical music, emanating from the home of Istria’s young people’s music academy, based in Grožnjan.

Perched above the Dobra Valley, Tinjan is a village with plenty of history but today is more famous for pršut or Istrian smoked ham.  The village has become so renowned for its production of the ham that an International Fair takes places here every October.  Make sure to try some whilst there, as it is delicious!

In the old centre of the village, see if you can spot the carved symbols on houses which show who used to live there, for examply a kosir (small sickle) for blacksmiths.  Take in the view over the valley from the small park area, where trees form a canopy over an ancient stone table and chairs.  This was where the leaders of the village would congregate to make decisions (a parish council meeting room!).

A little known gem on the Istrian coastline, Novigrad (also known as Cittanova) has an historic old centre and picturesque waterfront lined with pastel coloured buildings, home to restaurants and cafes.

Explore the narrow streets and you will notice an eye catching display overhead: colourful umbrellas are suspended over some of the streets, a novel way of providing some shade and perfect for Instagram!

There is a good choice of beaches in the area.  Within walking distance of Novigrad centre is Maestral (to the south), a gorgeous crescent shaped pebble beach.  Nearby is Punta Mare, an outdoor pool right on the edge of the sea. To the north of the town and a walk along the coastal promenade lies Pineta Beach, with a backdrop of pine trees.

In north-west Istria, the small town of Vižinada can be found. Originally on the crossroads of the main western artery running from Italy and Slovenia into Istria, Vižinada is now quieter following the building of a major new road further west. On Vižinada’s north side, a couple of vantage points offer superb views over the hilly countryside towards medieval Motovun. This is prime olive and grape growing territory - the lines of groves and vineyards can be seen all around Vižinada.