In the town
Sainte-Foy-la-Grande was founded in 1255 on the banks of the River Dordogne. It is in the Gironde department, but is sometimes referred to as the gateway to the Périgord (the historic name for the modern day Dordogne department), making it an ideal base to explore both regions.
There are some half-timbered houses here, which are typical of the country bastides in this area, but mainly you will see large solid stone houses, evidence of a Bordeaux influence. A good mix of architecture is found on the central square which is edged on three sides by arcades.
The proximity of the Dordogne River allows the opportunity to try many water activities (canoeing, boat trips and swimming in the summer). And the Museum of the Batellerie at Port Sainte-Foy, the old port just across the river, tells the history of river trading here.
Food and drink
Straddling two regions as it does, the style of cuisine in this area is influenced gastronomically by both Bordeaux and the Périgord. There are many restaurants to choose from for a meal out, and many atmospheric markets with fabulous local seasonal produce for cooking at home.
And this area really is an oenophile’s dream; it sits in the heart of the Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux wine region, which produces lovely Merlot reds and some whites, especially dry whites. There are many chateaux offering visits with wine tastings.
And only a little further afield lie more wine producing regions such as around Bergerac, Pécharmant, St Emilion, Pomerol and, of course, Bordeaux.
Saint-Emilion
A must-do day trip (about 40km from Sainte-Foy) is to Saint-Emilion, famous for its vineyards and wine domains. The wines are typically ruby in colour, with an elegant nose and a long smooth finish.
The town itself is very pretty, its cobbled streets framed by beautiful stone houses and walled gardens with greenery and roses creeping over. There is plenty of history to discover, as the town has been a key trading post as well as an important site of pilgrimage, and much of its heritage has survived. Climb up the Tour du Roi, the imposing tower which is all that remains of the 13th century castle, or instead go below ground to see a chapel carved out of solid rock and the cave where St Emilion himself is said to have sheltered.
Family fun
At Saint-Laurent-des-Vignes on the way to Bergerac there are facilities offering a variety of activities, from a superb 18-hole golf course at the Chateau des Vigiers, to ten-pin bowling and go-karting, and a water and leisure park.
In the other direction, in Belvès de Castillon, a unique series of events commemorates the famous Battle of Castillon, which ended the Hundred Years’ war. Held in scenic grounds at the foot of a chateau, the event brings the Middle Ages vividly to life. From early evening, there are stalls offering wine tasting, crafts and games. But the culmination is a large-scale re-enactment of the battle, 90 intense minutes involving hundreds of actors in costume, horses and other animals, excellent sound and lighting and even pyrotechnics, creating a memorable spectacle. There are 15 evening shows between mid July and late August; pre-booking is essential.