Granada’s San Cecilio Festival – Andalucia at its most vibrant and playful
Barely a week goes by before the Provence of Andalucia plays host to some kind of time-honoured and memorable fiesta, with February being no exception. If you are looking for an excuse to get some late-winter sun then Granada’s San Cecilio Festival might be just the excuse you are looking for.
It is believed that Saint Cecilio was killed by the Romans and his remains were placed in the Monastery of the Sacremonte in Granada. Every year there is a pilgrimage to pay homage to the martyr’s remains. As the pilgrims move through the streets and squares of Granada slowly climbing to the monastery above the towers of the Alhambra, this annual pilgrimage makes a striking spectacle that is there to be enjoyed by everyone.
The pilgrims gather at the meeting point in Granada’s Plaza Nueva. The walk only takes about an hour and by the time you get to the monastery you will be accompanied by a swathing sea of pilgrims all paying their respects to San Cecilio’s remains. The views from this focal point overlooking the whole of Granada with the snow-capped Sierra Nevada as a backdrop are simply stunning.
The pilgrimage is held on the first Sunday in February and despite taking place in the winter, the weather is often warm and sunny for the San Cecilio Fiesta. The long hike to a hilltop monastery is accompanied with food,drink and music, which goes on well into the early hours of the morning.
Huge paella dishes are cooked and stirred by cooks who have what could be described as a ship’s oar in their hands as they methodically stir the delicious food. All manner of wine and drink is a plenty, accompanied by music and dancing put on at various temporary stages.
Gypsy music is the dominant musical genre at this well-attended festival. The music of “passion and pain” is enhanced by a colourful display of flamenco dancing. It is said that when the hairs on the back of your neck stand on end as you are moved deeply and soulfully by flamenco you experience “duende”. The first time you experience ‘duende’ it is believed to mark the era of a new understanding of this type of music.
Granada is a fantastic city to visit at any time of the year but especially when the San Cecilio Festival is taking place, when this vibrant, traditional yet playful provincial capital comes alive with particular vigour and zest.